Rick in China
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
  Post Script
  • Wow…where do you begin.  What an experience...so different than  my current world of northern New Hampshire.  Like many trips, you usually end up like Dorothy…declaring “there’s no place like home!”  But I think that’s a good thing, because you should love where you are living.
  • Here are some of the dominant impressions about Chinese education:
  • The enthusiasm of the students, teachers and staff is incredible!  Everyone we observed and spoke with seemed ecstatic to be in their school.
  • The principals, high school students, middle school students, and elementary school students all expressed the strongest belief that they were in the best school, that they were lucky to be in the best school, and that they must take advantage of this opportunity because it is truly the key to them being successful in life.  They were very appreciative that their parents worked hard to give them this opportunity and therefore they must take advantage of it. 
  • Everyone valued education and what it can do for them…way beyond what I have ever witnessed in the US.
  • However, I think you really have to be careful about jumping to conclusions about the Chinese schools.  They are really so different from ours, and those differences so reflect the difference in our cultures and societies.  We are trying to educate the masses…that what America has always been about.  Just like it says on the Statue of Liberty, “give me your poor….”
  • China’s schools, certainly for the one’s we saw are for the elite.  There are over 1200 elementary schools in Beijing, and each has an application process.  So we truly saw the crème de la crème.  If you applied such a screening practice to American students you would see equally polite, well behaved, enthusiastic, hard working, and successful students.  That selectivity is also what allows them to have class sizes that we would abhor!  Perhaps that selectivity also allows them to have such no frills classrooms.  The teachers were always standing in the front of the room, displaying Powerpoint presentations and calling on attentive and enthusiastic kids who jumped out of their seats when they responded. 
  • Their students were delightful… just like ours.  That’s the joy of working in schools; especially elementary schools.
  • All of us would love to see a typical school.  Malcolm, the Aussie who visits China 15 times a year, stated the typical school has all the same discipline problems that we do.
  • We didn’t see any special education/504/remediation classes…they don’t exist in these select schools.  That reflects their survival of the fittest philosophy.
  • Nor did we see any parents; but that’s because they’re all working. I don’t think there are many stay at home moms.  I also think that the parents turn over the educational responsibility to the schools; they help with homework, and they clearly establish and reinforce the importance of education. 
  • I think the value of the exchange programs is that it helps the kids realize that as Thomas Friedman puts it; “the world is flat”.  Technology has flattened it and our students need to take advantage of that phenomena.  If they don’t there will be plenty of Chinese kids that will.  I think most importantly the exchanges will lead us to realize that the entire world needs to work on saving the environment; protecting the planet.  One part of the world can’t do it alone and such it’s our exchanges that will lead us to working together to save the world!
 
  November 8, 2008
  • Today is my last day in China…I’m anxious to get home, but at the same time very thankful and appreciative to have had this experience.
  • We went to Tianamen Square  and the Forbidden City this morning.  The square was only a very short bus ride from our hotel.  Many in our group have already walked there in the evenings.
  • Although it was just 8:30 AM, the square was filled with tourists, even more crowded than the Olympic venues.  The square is huge.  The hawkers swarmed over us like black flies in June.  They were selling kites, postcards, Russian fur hats, and a variety of other items.  The hawkers wouldn’t let up, and would even keep following you as you walked away.  One of our group members, Richard Voltz from Springfield, Illinois, even had a man put his hand right into his pants pocket and once initially reacted he kept following Richard and smiling at the same time.  I was wearing my Red Sox hat so one hawker said, “hey Boston!” 
  • It took us about 15 minutes to walk across the square.  We kept stopping to take pictures of both the Forbidden City on one side and Mao’s tomb on the other.  I would have like to go in Mao’s tomb, but we didn’t have enough time.
  • Mao’s portrait hangs over the main entrance.  According to the guides, a new portrait is put up every year on October 1st.  Each new portrait is identical to the previous.  The painter is very old…don’t know what they’ll do when he dies.
  • The Forbidden City was overwhelming.  I can only compare it to the other monarch’s palace’s that I’ve seen:  Versailles, Fountainbleau, Buckingham Palace, and Windsor Castle.  It was overwhelming it its size, yet it had a simplicity that I found very appealing.
  • We got conflicting reports on the construction details.  Depending on the guide it took 14 or 40 years to build and 1 million workers were involved!  I really love the painted woodwork that is underneath the roof line, and the sculptures on the corners of the roof.
  • The Emporer’s quarters hardly seem homey…they’re way to large to appeal to our standards…yet I’m sure that’s the intent.
  • The floor of one of the inner court yard’s is 50 brick’s high, yet the overall level of court yard is not noticeably higher than the rest of the city.  No worry about frost heaves there.
  • There were multiple throne rooms, each with a specific purpose, and the buildings and inner squares just seemed to go on forever.  There was also an inner moat.
  • We were really overwhelmed with information about the Forbidden City.  All of us stated we will go home and rent the “Last Emporer” on Netflix…I’m sure everyone does that.  It’s so hard to imagine what it would be like to be part of that world.
  • After leaving the Forbidden City, our group divided in half.  One group went shopping and the other went out to lunch.  I made the wrong choice and went for the meal.  Those that shopped got tremendous bargains. 
  • By the time we got back to the hotel I only had an hour to find a post office, purchase stamps, and write my cards.
  • 11 of us hired a minibus to take us to the airport, and back to our real worlds.
  • We joked about having a reunion of Bus B at the Great Pyramids next year, and continue the yearly get togethers until we’ve seen the 7 wonders!

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Friday, November 7, 2008
  November 7, 2008
 
Thursday, November 6, 2008
  Listen to the Band at the Feng Tai #5 Primary School
 
  November 6, 2008
  • Our trained arrived in Beijing at 6:45 AM.  There were guides from the Beijing International Educational Exchange waiting for us as we departed the train.  The Beijing station was even bigger than the one in Zangzhou.  The enormity of China is constantly striking you.  Outside the station there was a huge video screen…probably the size of the one in Times Square in NYC.  I think I saw it during one of the Olympic broadcasts.
  • We all immediately noticed that the skies were blue and there was very little smog compared to Shanghai and Yangzhou, where it was forever present.
  • It took about 45 minutes to get to the hotel, which was spotless.  Again our rooms were very nice…quite a contract to the train and the back alleys we had just experienced. 
  • Everyone took a shower before breakfast.  What a difference a good shower makes in your attitude!
  • After breakfast local educational dignitaries and principals arrived.  We heard the required speeches from the Deputy Director of BEII and then just mingled with principals from the Beijing area.  They sought us out; most of the Chinese principals were escorted by one of their English teachers who served as a translator.  Many of us suspected that some of the principals could speak English, but having a translator is a status symbol, so they use them.
  • Every Chinese principal was on a mission to make “contact” in the form of agreeing to email and explore student and teacher exchanges between their school and ours.  Establishing such contact is one of the criteria that contributes to a school’s ranking      as a one, two, three, four, or five star school.  These rankings mean a lot to the principals.  Anyone who had a five star ranking would work that into the conversation within the first 90 seconds!
  • Despite the pretensions, I really enjoyed talking to two different elementary principals and their English teachers.  We would be visiting one of their schools after lunch.
  • Our discussions continue right up to our luncheon banquet, which was mediocre.  We’re all getting tired of banquets.
  • The first school that we visited this afternoon was the Beijing Huang Cheng General Primary School.  We observed a 1st grade Chinese class, a 4th grade music class, several PE classes, and a calligraphy class.  Again we were struck by the number of students in each class 33-40, the outstanding behavior of the students who were not even distracted by the 20 visitors in their classroom, the enthusiasm of the students and their teacher, the absence of classroom decorations, and the smallness of the classrooms.  At the end of each observation, the kids would join us for a group photo…I handed out some Lakeway Leopards pencils, and made friends for life.
  • In the calligraphy class we were allowed to use the kids brushes and try to paint the good luck character they were practicing.  After each student had completed 10-20 practice versions, the teacher gave each child a piece of red paper and the kids completed a final copy.  The teacher examined each student’s and directed only the best ones to be given to us!  Talk about competition.  I had my picture taken with the student who gave me her’s and rewarded her with a pencil.
  • We completed our visit to this school with a meeting with the principal, assistant principal, and several English teachers in the room they use for faculty meetings.  It was a big oval shaped table that could seat 30 people.  The table and room were very similar to what you would find in a large corporation’s “board room”.  I ended up thinking that such accommodations really convey a sense of importance and value to such meetings and their profession.  Clearly educators are very respected and valued in China.
  • This school had a huge Times Square video screen in their outdoor piazza.  They also had an outdoor stage, another common feature in China.  Since this school was located in the middle of a very busy shopping area, there was a very sturdy accordion fence which was manned by a police man.
  • We then rushed to our next school, the Feng Tai No.5 Primary School. 
  • When we arrived, their outdoor sign displayed, “welcome foreign presidents”, something was lost in the translation.  Everyone took a picture of that sign.
  • Our visit to this school focused on martial arts, PE, band, and children’s opera performances.  The students were amazing…so reminiscent of what we all witnessed during the Olympic ceremonies.  We learned that some of the kids from this school participated in the opening drumming performance at the Games.
  • Each performing group gave us a mini lesson to the visiting presidents.  I really enjoyed a chance to play an ancient guitar like instrument. 
  • Again we all posed for pictures with the kids.  The usual press corps continues to memorialize every moment of our visit.
  • We then met with the principals and English teachers.  At this school were received gifts after the usual Q&A.  I repeated my question about behavior…do the teachers spend lots of classtime establishing and reviewing behavior expectations, or do the kids arrive in 1st grade well behaved. Answer=they arrive well behaved.  The teachers only spend 5 minutes in the first few classes explain behavior expectations.
  • This visit closed with both a banquet at an enormous restaurant…bigger than any I have every seen.  The principals and teachers were treating us.  This ended up being our best Chinese food of the trip and restored my opinion about it.  The Beijing duck was outstanding, as were the dumplings (Peking ravioli).  Our conversations were equally rich.
  • A great day, and a wonderful start to our time in Beijing!

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  November 5, 2008
  • Today we were scheduled to be
     typical tourists, no workshops or school visits.
  • We checked out of the hotel at 7:40 AM, and boarded the bus for a ride to have a traditional Chinese breakfast.  Most of us ate at the hotel’s buffet; our experience with traditional Chinese meals had taught us to take advantage of good food while you can.
  • Our wisdom paid off.  Although some of the dumplings were good; and our definition of good is quickly changing, most of the meal was varieties of steamed vegetable and unidentifiable meats.  Like our banquet room at the Yangzhou Guesthouse, the restaurant had lots of round tables that seated ten, and there was the exact same type of glass lazy Susan that enable family style sharing of each of the dishes.
  • We then went to Slender Lake Garden which was built several hundred years ago by the salt merchants of Yangzhou to attract the Emporer.  Gardens are a very important part of Chinese life.  Every garden must contain water, rock, trees and flowers.  Paths, and even the bridges over the water, are frequently crooked in order to provide a constantly changing views.  This garden was the premier garden of Yangzhou and was filled with other tourist groups.  In addition to the obvious floral arrangements you’d find in a garden, this garden also had music piped in to various places.
  • We went for a 20 minute dragon boat ride.  Our boat was power by a beautiful young woman who moved the boat with a single oar/tiller as she sat at the stern of the boat.  One of our teachers from Manchester, James O’Dwyer, who has been to China before and provided us with constant local information, ecouraged her to sing and she did.  James actually was on a dragon boat with this same woman during his previous visit and noted that they were actually on the boat when the most recent big eathquake occurred.
  • During out time in the garden a number of the educators in the group were receiving election results from the US via text messages from friends.  When I first heard that Obama was off to a big lead and that victory was likely I was moved to tears.  Word spread quickly among the Americans especially with each update.  Many of the Australian and English expressed their elation for Obama’s impending victory.
  • We left the garden at 11:30 and head for a modern, clean large restaurant that was surrounded by beautiful gardens.  As we walked into this restaurant we were greeted by a two piece musical combo that was singing a Carpenter’s song.  They were actually pretty good and cover many American hits including the Eagles’ “Hotel California”.  We were treated to a wonderful buffet, including cold draft beer, sushi, and espresso.  Their wasabi was very hot.  Like the buffets at the Yangzhou Guesthouse, they are clearly appealing to a wide range of Western tastes.  I still haven’t figured out how to eat fully shelled shrimp with chop sticks.   Our best meal so far.
  • I made a toast to our new president…everyone cheered! 
  • Our next stop was to the Yangzhou Municipal Museum, a very large Guggenheim like structure that was probably built in the past decade.  The volunteer guides from Yangzhou University that are spending the day with us did not provide much information about the displays, so we on our own to interpret what we were seeing.  Unfortunately none of the displays included English.
  • After leaving the museum our bus took to us to first a laquerware store, and then to a jade store for some shopping.  A number of people in our group bought items in one or both of these places, and many bought nothing.  Even in very Western like stores, you’re expected to haggle over the price.  The rule of thumb, don’t pay more than 30% of the original price. 
  • After shopping we headed toward our dinner restaurant, but walked several back streets/alleys of downtown Zangzhou to see the real urban China.  It was extremely depressing and shocking.  We saw many people living in shantiess, one room homes w/out plumbing or electricity.  They cook in the alley and use public toilets.  They have to leave their doors open for light, so you can see right in.  At first I thought these were just run down garages that people were using for a business of some sort or storage, but then it becomes clear to you that these spaces are their homes! 
  • There were many street vendors, cooking and selling many unidentifiable items.  Some smelled good and some smelled horrid.  My appetite was quickly disappearing.
  • We did see the home of the current Chairman.  It is unmarked and very modest.  He does have an official residence, so this is his home prior to becoming Chairman.  However, our guide says he does still use it occasionally.
  • Dinner was our second worst; only a bit better than what we had at the NBOFL school on Tuesday night.  Lots of vegetables and unusual meats.  The best course was peanuts…I’m not kidding!
  • Our stay in Zangzhou ended when we arrived at the train station, a mammoth modern looking building that was very crowded.  Bags had to be xrayed before we could enter the station, and we boarded our train almost immediately. 
  • The train left the station right on time…8:30 PM.
  • Four of us share a compartment that had already been converted into two sets of bunks with pillows and comforters on each bed.  The space between the bunks was very small so we had to take turns standing in the corridor while one person got ready for bed.
  • Several of us went to the club car and had a Budweiser in celebration of Obama’s victory, but the beer was warm and we were all exhausted, so we turned in by 10 AM.
  • The bunks were hard as wood, but I slept ‘til about 3 AM before having to go to the bathroom.  Those are another story…words can describe the smell…you had to be there…no…I wouldn’t wish that on my worst enemy.
 
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
  Listen to her "English"!
 

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